Kevin Saffer

Snowmass Mountain behind Snowmass Lake
Kevin Saffer

Kevin Saffer

Truths from the Trail

Nick, Lew and I met on video calls 3 times over 6 moths to talk about a trip and finally plan our adventure in the Snowmass Wilderness west of Aspen, Colorado.

Nick and met at the airport, flew to Denver, picked up a car and then Lew from local bar on our way west on I-70. After a quick stop at REI to pick up fuel for our stoves and last minute provisions for the hike we were off. We decided to take the scenic route (or I decided). South on route 24 to Granite and then northwest on 82 to Aspen.

We only had rough plans for our first night. Nick booked a stay in a local hotel and we knew roughly were to park the car and catch the shuttle the next day. We arrived in the hotel, dumped our packs, sorted and reorganized in preparation for the early start.

Wakeup, coffee, park the car, find the shuttle stop and off we go. 45 minutes on the shuttle and we arrived at Aspen Highlands. A quick checkin to get yet another shuttle pass. More coffee, wandering the hotel grounds and 15 minutes later we’re on the second shuttle to Maroon Bells drop-off neat Maroon Lake. The drive, shall I call him a tour guide, was very friendly and kept us entertained and informed during the winding climb up the valley along Maroon Creek.

We exited the shuttle to a distant view of North Maroon peak over Maroon Lake. The sky blue, the air clean and the temperature perfect.

Hit the bathroom, filled our water bottles, took a quick setting-off photo and started up the trail.

The expedition team

The trail quickly entered the cover of tall pines and began to ascend toward the peaks. An hour or so later we entered a clearing at the northern end of Crater lake. Maroon Snowmass trail to the northwest would be our route. A quick drink and fill-up at Crater lake and then off again to climb higher and faster to the first of four mountain passes we’d encounter, Buckskin Pass.

Crater Lake

About half way up the pass we took a detour, southwestish, to refill water in a small stream and begin the ascent of North Maroon peak.

It was always my intent to attempt a summit of both North Maroon and West Maroon peaks. Lew and Nick were not so sure they were up for it.

Nick found a shady shrub, setup a camp chair and his camera and had a snack while Lew and I set off up the mountain. A couple miles up the mountain the trail crosses a large boulder field. The trail disappears and you’re left to you own devices to navigate the huge boulders, look for cairns and avoid breaking an ankle. I swear we were on the boulder field for 2 hours trying find our way across to west ridge of North Maroon and the trail to the summit. We got off course 1 or 2 times on the boulder field, but eventually spotted the trail and made our way to it.

The ridge line trail ascends very quickly, is very steep and is not very forgiving on either side. Mountain to the right, cliff to the left. We hiked about 50 yards, checked the time and realized we told Nick we’d be back before 3:00p. At this point we had about an hour before Nick would wonder if we’d perished and hit the SOS button. Regretfully, we decided to turn back, cross the boulder field again and make our way back to Nick. He looked so relaxed as we returned.

Already tired from our failed attempt at North Maroon we begrudgingly continued the climb to Buckskin pass. As we gained elevation the trees quickly gave way to low growing shrubs and then finally only rocks and dust. As we looked up toward the pass we could only see switchbacks and the horizon.

One foot in front of the other, pause for water and breath, repeat. Eventually we could see the pass. Only a couple more switchbacks remain. Smiles began to form on faces. Our moods brightened and we began to chit-chat more.

Finally the top of the pass. Wholly shit! What view. The pass gave way to an expansive rolling valley carpeted by grass and then trees. The trail wound down the mountain like thin brown line and finally disappeared into the trees. The mountains across the valley stood like giants protecting the pristine lands below. We all dropped our packs, scrounged for water bottles and snacks and dropped to our butts with a thump to take it in and quench our thirst.

Another triumphant photo and off we go; winding down the rolling mountain-side. With a bit more pep in our step and some new energy we descended more quickly than we climbed. As we approached the first patch of trees we quickly decided it would make the perfect camp for our first night on the trail.

We made our way into the grove of pine trees and found a perfectly level, perfectly sheltered spot for all our tents. Dinner, snacks, and some reflective discussion on the first day of hiking and we were all ready to call it a night. Bedtime is early in the mountains. When the sun hits the horizon the temperatures begin to drop quickly and the mountain paradise becomes a very dark bedroom with a star filled sky.

I don’t remember going to bed, listening to music or an audio book, I just fell asleep.

Morning 1 on the trails started like most of my mornings. Wake up. Resist getting out of the sleeping bag. The urge to pee finally overcoming my need to stay warm and cozy I quickly exit the bag and tent, pull on warm clothes and shoes. Stumble to a good place to relive my bladder. Return to camp and fumble around to make coffee and stay warm. With everyone awake now we ask how each slept, sip warm coffee and move about stretching our tired muscles and relieving tension from our joints.

Packing up camp may the worst part of backpacking. It feels like 2 minutes ago that I got everything out the pack and setup camp. Even so, it’s not that bad and the promise of an amazing day ahead makes it all worth while.

As we set our for the day we exit the grove of trees into a grassy valley with a meandering creek. A nice stroll along the water with very little elevation change. It’s a welcome place to begin; allowing use to get the blood flowing and warm the muscles and joints.

We stop a couple times along this trail to look for wildlife and gaze into the cool clear water. Small Trout swim along the edge and we wonder if we should assemble the fly ros and give it shot. We don’t, we’re eager to see what’s next.

Across the grassy meadow we enter the trees and hike a relatively easy trail upward toward the mountains we gazed at the night before. Before long we reach a creek, the out flow from Snowmass lake, and trail follows it up into the woods.

We reach the lake. Wholly shit! What a view. The tree lined shore surrounds a perfectly reflective surface in which we gaze upon Snowmass mountain upside down. The mountains reflection in the water is as clear and colorful; as the mountain itself. Green, brown and gray stripes paint the perfect shapes as the mountain rises into the sky. Rolling hills decsend on the lake for either side forming the perfect frame; drawing your eyes toward the center of that lake and then up the mountain side to the summit. Puffy clouds fill the soft blue sky and cradle the summit. i’m not sure I’ve every seen such a beautiful photograph. But its not a photograph, it’s real and I’m standing right in front of it.

Once I’ve emerged from my awe, I drop my pack and take fresh drink of water. We explore the western lakeshore. Winding in and out the trees and onto the rocks right at the water. Lew and Nick continued to explore the shore and I returned my pack to take a seat, have a snack and gaze upon this wonder once more.

I think 30-45 minutes pass before Nick and Lew return; wet. They braved the icy mountain water.